SHE K, GREATED C A, EASSON W J. Experimental study of three dimensional breaking waves[J]. J Waterway, Port,Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, 1994, 120(1): 20-36.
[2]
LI Yok-sheung, LIU Shu-xue, YU Yu-xiu, et al. Numerical modeling of Boussinesq equations by finite element method [J]. Coastal Engineering, 1999. 37: 97-122.
SHE K, GREATED C A, EASSON W J. Experimental study of three dimensional breaking wave kinematics[J]. Applied Ocean Research, 1997, 19: 329-343.
[5]
JOHANNESSEN T B. The effect of directionality on the nonlinear behavior of extreme transient ocean waves[D]. London:University of London, 1997.
[6]
BEJI S, NADAOKA K. A formal derivation and numerical modeling of the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth [J]. Ocean Engineering, 1996, 23(8): 691-704.
