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地理学报  2014 

跨地方饮食文化生产中的原真性重塑——西贝西北菜在广州的案例研究

DOI: 10.11821/dlxb201412012, PP. 1871-1886

Keywords: 原真性,广州,饮食地理,跨地方,文化生产,感知价值

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Abstract:

在文献梳理基础上,采用结构方程模型方法,构建基于服务质量、食物质量、环境、原真性食物、原真性环境、原真性服务、感知价值、满意度、行为意向等9个概念的理论模型,讨论广州西贝西北菜餐厅跨地方饮食文化生产的顾客行为意向。研究发现①跨地方文化生产餐厅的原真性可从原真性食物、原真性环境、原真性服务三个维度进行解释。原真性饮食文化生产凸显了地方性,但被消费者认知的原真性,是一种被凸显的、符号化的、重塑的原真性,是对学术界争论的几种原真性的杂糅和融合。②在跨地方文化生产中,原真性环境和服务比原真性食物更重要,尤其是在定位高档的跨地方饮食文化消费情境中,原真性服务对顾客满意感有显著影响,充分证明原真性服务是跨地方文化生产餐厅原真性的重要组成部分,对顾客的原真性体验产生积极影响。这是地方性饮食在跨地方饮食文化生产中的原真性重塑及融合的结果。③原真性服务对跨地方饮食文化的原真性重塑具有关键作用,消费者对跨地方饮食文化原真性的体验,取决于远离饮食文化源地的经营地的地方性文化特质。

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