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Linen Most Useful: Perspectives on Structure, Chemistry, and Enzymes for Retting Flax

DOI: 10.5402/2013/186534

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Abstract:

The components of flax (Linum usitatissimum) stems are described and illustrated, with reference to the anatomy and chemical makeup and to applications in processing and products. Bast fiber, which is a major economic product of flax along with linseed and linseed oil, is described with particular reference to its application in textiles, composites, and specialty papers. A short history of retting methods, which is the separation of bast fiber from nonfiber components, is presented with emphasis on water retting, field retting (dew retting), and experimental methods. Past research on enzyme retting, particularly by the use of pectinases as a potential replacement for the current commercial practice of field retting, is reviewed. The importance and mechanism of Ca2+ chelators with pectinases in retting are described. Protocols are provided for retting of both fiber-type and linseed-type flax stems with different types of pectinases. Current and future applications are listed for use of a wide array of enzymes to improve processed fibers and blended yarns. Finally, potential lipid and aromatic coproducts derived from the dust and shive waste streams of fiber processing are indicated. 1. Introduction of Flax and Linen Fiber The history of flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) is long and important. The translation of its scientific name, “linen most useful” [1, 2], aptly describes its versatility and importance to world economy. Linen, the long, strong fibers from flax stems, is considered one of the earliest successes in textiles [3]. While evidence does not exist on how early people learned to separate fibers from the stems, flax as a major textile in ancient Egypt is well documented in depictions of its cultivation and processing [4]. Linen samples have been reported in the remains of Swiss lake dwellings dating back some 10,000 years [3]. Production and use expanded beyond the Mediterranean countries to central and northern Europe, making its way to Great Britain about 2,000 years ago from the Middle East by Phoenician traders [3]. Linen, as one of the primary fibers for Europe throughout the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period, was used extensively for clothing. Linen was important to Russia and its economy through various stages of its political history [5]. Flax became the greatest export item and the basis of economic life in Russia in the late 1800s and into the twentieth century. At one time, Russia produced about 80% of the world’s fiber flax crop and before 1936 was the greatest exporter of flax. Fiber flax came to North America by European

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