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海洋科学 2008
Strongly nonlinear long waves with uniform shear flows and their dispersion relationship
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Abstract:
Long surface waves of finite amplitude with uniform shear flows are considered under the only assumption that the aspect ratio between wavelength and water depth is small.A new model is derived using the velocity at an arbitrary distance from the still water level as the velocity variable instead of the commonly used depth-averaged velocity.This significantly improves the dispersion properties,making them applicable to a wider range of water depths.Since its derivation requires no assumption on wave amplitu...