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海洋科学 2010
Numerical study of the influence of coastal current on wave propagation
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Abstract:
We simulated propagation of coastal waves coupled with longshore currents and offshore currents. Firstly, we investigated how the velocities and the gradients of uniform or non-uniform longshore currents affect wave heights in the propagation, when the offshore currents were assigned to be zero. Secondly, we investigated how the velocities and the gradients of uniform or non-uniform offshore currents affect the variation of wave heights in the propagation, when the longshore offshore currents were assigned to be a constant. As a result, the correlation between wave height and the velocity and the gradient of coastal currents was obtained.