%0 Journal Article
%T 缓坡开槽沙坝海岸裂流特性分析
%A 王彦
%A 邹志利
%J 工程科学与技术
%D 2015
%R 10.15961/j.jsuese.2015.02.003
%X 中文摘要: 为了研究缓坡裂流槽地形叠加波浪的裂流特征，进行了由反射墙反射的交叉波浪叠加形成的沿岸波高周期性变化所产生的裂流实验研究，分析在开裂流槽的缓坡开槽沙坝模型实验地形随机波浪交叉叠加形成的裂流特性。实验中裂流由波浪在垂直岸线的直墙上的反射所形成的2列交叉的波浪生成，交叉波浪由具有等波幅和等频率但入射角相反的2波列叠加产生的。通过对交叉叠加波浪下裂流槽附近范围的波高分布、波浪增减水和ADV流速测量结果分析了缓坡地形开槽沙坝情况下的裂流特性。裂流槽和两侧沙坝位置形成的波浪破碎不同步产生的沿岸平均波面压力梯度是产生裂流的原因。不同周期引起的叠加波浪节腹点位置的变化影响裂流槽中裂流的形态，表明周期和裂流槽共同影响着沟槽中的裂流特性。</br>Abstract:To study the characteristics of rip current by intersecting wave on mild slope barred beach with rip channel,the experiment of rip currents by intersecting random wave on the mild-slope barred beach with rip channel was done.Rip currents resulted from the two intersecting wave trains produced by the reflection of obliquely incident waves on a vertical wall which stands perpendicular to the coastal line.The two intersecting waves were with the same amplitude and frequency,but the opposite angle. The results of the distribution of wave heights,setup and velocity measuring by ADVs near the rip channel were shown to analyze the characteristics of rip currents on barred beaches with rip channel of mild slope.Shoreward of the bars,the alongshore pressure gradients between the bars and channels owing to the stronger breaking on the bars drive feeder currents that converge at the channels and turn offshore as rip currents.
%K 裂流 交叉波浪 沙坝 裂流槽 污染物排放&lt
%K /br&gt
%K rip currents intersecting wave sand bar rip channel pollutant emission
%U http://jsuese.ijournals.cn/jsuese_cn/ch/reader/view_abstract.aspx?file_no=201400690&flag=1