%0 Journal Article
%T Corps, apparences vestimentaires et identit¨¦s en France ¨¤ la Renaissance
%A Isabelle Paresys
%J Apparence(s) : Histoire et Culture du Para£¿tre
%D 2012
%I IRHiS-Septentrion
%X Un corps v¨ºtu sp¨¦cifique ¨¦merge ¨¤ la Renaissance en France et particuli¨¨rement ¨¤ la Cour. Le v¨ºtement impose sa marque sur le corps, accentue le dimorphisme sexuel des apparences, et donne ¨¤ celles-ci rectitude ou distorsion, transformant le corps en une surface d¨¦corative sur laquelle peut s¡¯exprimer la magnificence des souverains et celle de leur cour. Ce corps v¨ºtu r¨¦sulte de l¡¯influence de modes europ¨¦ennes et de nouvelles normes de civilit¨¦ qui construisent la pr¨¦sentation de soi. Elles trouvent leur pleine expression ¨¤ la cour o¨´ le corps de mode aristocratique affiche une ¨¦loquence distinctive et cosmopolite. Dans le m¨ºme temps, les identit¨¦s qu¡¯inculque le v¨ºtement au corps paraissent menac¨¦es par les transferts de pratiques vestimentaires entre les sexes, entre les groupes sociaux et entre les nations, entra nant un malaise envers ce brouillage des apparences qui prend une couleur particuli¨¨re durant les guerres civiles quand se pose de mani¨¨re sanglante la question des identit¨¦s et de la conscience nationale. Body, Dress and Identities in Renaissance France. A specific type of clothed body emerged in 16th century France especially at Court. Clothing put its mark on the body, accentuating sexual dimorphism, imposing either Renaissance rectitude or distortions, transforming the body into a decorative surface for displaying magnificence. Its specificity resulted from the influence of various vestimentary and decorative fashions, starting with the new kinds of civility circulating in Renaissance Europe, which fashioned self-presentation. It found its fullest expression on the bodies of cosmopolitan aristocrats seeking a distinctive eloquence for their particular identity. At the same time, the identities which clothes imprinted on their wearer seemed threatened by transfers of vestimentary practices between sexes, sexual groups, and/or nations. The unease created by this mixture of appearances reflects that of a changing French society, its national identity re-defined in singularly bloody fashion by prolonged religious warfare.
%K clothing
%K France
%K 16th century
%K Renaissance
%K French court
%K Body
%K Identities
%K cities
%K France
%K v¨ºtements
%K cour de France
%K XVIe si¨¨cle
%K Renaissance
%K corps
%K identit¨¦s
%K ville
%U http://apparences.revues.org/1229