%0 Journal Article
%T Re-inventing food: Alpine cheese in the age of global heritage. Re-inventing food:Le fromage alpin ¨¤ l'¨¨re de la globalisation du patrimoine.
%A Cristina Grasseni
%J Anthropology of Food
%D 2011
%I Anthropology of Food
%X Le concept d¡¯h¨¦ritage culturel, ou patrimoine immat¨¦riel, est appliqu¨¦ avec succ¨¨s ¨¤ l¡¯alimentation, surtout dans les domaines de la consommation soutenable et critique, de la production traditionnelle et organique et du d¨¦veloppement local. N¨¦anmoins, ce processus exige un certain niveau de standardisation de la nourriture et des images associ¨¦es adress¨¦es au grand public. La r¨¦invention de la nourriture peut engendrer des strat¨¦gies d¡¯auto-red¨¦couverte qui impliquent une nouvelle lecture des histoires locales et des paysages, ainsi que la r¨¦-¨¦valuation du patrimoine intangible, mais tout ceci ne se passe pas dans un vide historique et juridique. Au contraire, les technicit¨¦s commerciales et logistiques de la production interagissent sous de nombreux aspects avec la r¨¦invention de la nourriture comme h¨¦ritage. Ce ph¨¦nom¨¨ne appara t de fa on ¨¦vidente dans la r¨¦gion alpine de l¡¯Italie du nord, selon plusieurs ¨¦tudes ethnographiques r¨¦centes. This article, based mainly on ethnographic examples of the transformation of traditional Alpine cheese-making systems, argues that a certain amount of standardization of traditional food systems is required in order to offer local products on a wider market basis. Nevertheless, this introduces important changes in the whole socio-technical system that underlies typical products: from raw material to product marketing. This also implies momentous changes about the ways in which local foods are produced, distributed and consumed, as well as in the ways they are socially and symbolically appropriated. Such reinvention of food can further mobilize local strategies for re-valuing intangible patrimony: local histories, material culture and landscapes. This is a complex and interconnected process, as highlighted by ethnographic examples provided ¨C both from my own fieldwork and from current ethnographic literature. When food is reinvented as heritage, historical, juridical and logistical details count. This is particularly apparent in my ethnography of an Alpine valley of Northern Italy, which I interpret against the backdrop of a focused literature review providing an underlying theoretical perspective about the role of food in the age of global heritage.
%K food
%K terroir
%K standardization
%K typical products
%K boundaries
%K Alps
%K glocal
%K Alpage cheese
%K alimentation
%K standardisation
%K produit typique
%K terroir
%K fronti¨¨res
%K Alpes
%K glocal
%K alpage
%K fromage.
%U http://aof.revues.org/6819