%0 Journal Article
%T A NONLINEAR MODEL OF SURF BEAT 1)<br>海岸碎波拍的计算
%A Dong Guohai
%A Zou Zhili
%A <br>董国海
%A 邹志利
%J 力学学报
%D 1998
%I 
%X A nonlinear, short-wave-averaged model of surf beat, which describes essentially long-period motions associated with the mean free surface,is presented. The numerical techniques used in the solution are based on so-called Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method, with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short wave (or primary-wave) energy e...
%K short-wave-averaged model
%K surfbeat
%K Weighted-Average Flux method<br>碎波拍
%K 破碎波浪
%K 低频波浪
%K 海岸
%K WAF法
%U http://www.alljournals.cn/get_abstract_url.aspx?pcid=6E709DC38FA1D09A4B578DD0906875B5B44D4D294832BB8E&cid=5D344E2AD54D14F8&jid=4100DA4A1A3BA1B0CE5AD99AE1DFB420&aid=8FA93829C9719D1C12D4153768155EF4&yid=8CAA3A429E3EA654&vid=340AC2BF8E7AB4FD&iid=CA4FD0336C81A37A&sid=BE33CC7147FEFCA4&eid=771152D1ADC1C0EB&journal_id=0459-1879&journal_name=力学学报&referenced_num=1&reference_num=0