%0 Journal Article
%T Faire la preuve de l¡¯  authenticit¨¦   du patrimoine alimentaire Giving evidence of the authenticity of food heritage: the case of   local wines
%A Sandrine Barrey
%A Genevi¨¨ve Teil
%J Anthropology of Food
%D 2011
%I Anthropology of Food
%X Cet article porte sur la notion d¡¯  authenticit¨¦   appliqu¨¦e au patrimoine des   vins de terroir  . Ces dix derni¨¨res ann¨¦es, des vignerons accusent la l¨¦gislation des AOC (Appellations d¡¯Origine Contr l¨¦es) de ne plus prot¨¦ger les terroirs et de laisser les mauvaises pratiques des vignerons les pervertir. Le retour vers la qualit¨¦ de terroir repose donc la question de l¡¯identification de la nature authentique de ce patrimoine alimentaire. Pour mener cette approche r¨¦flexive, une premi¨¨re partie est consacr¨¦e ¨¤ une revue de litt¨¦rature sur la notion d¡¯  authenticit¨¦  . Une seconde partie analyse les questions et les pratiques d¨¦ploy¨¦es par les vignerons pour retrouver l¡¯  authenticit¨¦   des terroirs exprim¨¦e par les vins ; et enfin les difficult¨¦s rencontr¨¦es au moment de concevoir une proc¨¦dure de jugement de cette derni¨¨re. L¡¯article montre que loin d¡¯¨ºtre une donn¨¦e objective non discutable, ou bien une simple illusion, l¡¯  authenticit¨¦   des vins de terroir est un r¨¦sultat attach¨¦ ¨¤ l¡¯ensemble des activit¨¦s qui la font advenir.This article focuses on the notion of authenticity attributed to terroir wines as part of food heritage. Over the past ten years, the AOC system (protected designation of origin) has come under attack from wine growers on the grounds that it no longer protects lands and vineyards, leaving them at the mercy of bad practice. The return of quality terroir therefore brings us back to the problem of proving the authenticity of this particular food heritage. The present study begins with a review of literature based on the notion of authenticity. It then explores the different methods used by wine growers to rediscover the ¡®genuine¡¯ taste of terroir and express it in their wines. It concludes by looking into the difficulties of designing a wine-tasting procedure capable of judging whether or not a wine really does express its terroir. The article shows that the ¡®authenticity¡¯ of terroir wine is neither objectively measurable nor merely illusion but comes from everything that has gone into its making.
%K authenticity
%K culinary heritage
%K local wines
%K quality
%K authenticit¨¦
%K patrimoine alimentaire
%K vin de terroir
%K qualit¨¦
%U http://aof.revues.org/6783