%0 Journal Article
%T Peruvian restaurants in Buenos Aires (1999-2009) Les restaurants p¨¦ruviens ¨¤ Buenos Aires (1999-2009) ; de la discrimination ¨¤ l'adoption
%A Gloria Sammartino
%J Anthropology of Food
%D 2011
%I Anthropology of Food
%X In Buenos Aires the ¡°otherness¡± of Peruvian immigrants is structured around manifestations of discrimination that come from the host society. Our purpose is to analyze immigrant foods and the representations they evoke, as well as to investigate the way in which their cooking acquires new meanings in new contexts, showing a tendency to become a mark of specificity and a way to resist the hostility of the host society. In order to do this, we focus on Peruvian restaurants and specifically ¡®exocuisine¡¯ or eating out, as opposed to ¡®endocuisine¡¯ or eating in. By starting with an analysis of meals and commensality practices in the ¡®eating-out¡¯ context, we aim to account for the processes of construction-reconstruction of relationships among Peruvians as well as between Peruvians and Argentines when eating in restaurants. Our objective we is to highlight the role that restaurants have been performing among immigrants, exploring the expansion of the Peruvian culinary vocabulary and identifying the changes in the social and cultural functions of food. In addition, following the rise of Peruvian cuisine at international level in recent years, we return to the field after nearly nine years in order to register the new meanings it acquires in the local context and how this influences the dialogue between immigrants and the host society. L'immigration p¨¦ruvienne ¨¤ Buenos Aires s'inscrit dans un contexte d'accentuation des discriminations envers les diff¨¦rentes communaut¨¦s rejet¨¦es par l'Etat nation argentin. Cet article met en valeur la fa on dont les habitudes alimentaires sont re-signifi¨¦es et transform¨¦es en une marque de sp¨¦cificit¨¦ et une forme de r¨¦sistance face ¨¤ l'hostilit¨¦ de la soci¨¦t¨¦ d'accueil. Cet article ne repose pas sur les pratiques quotidiennes ayant lieu au sein des familles, l¡¯ endocuisine , mais sur l¡¯ exocuisine  et le domaine particulier des restaurants. A partir de l'analyse des aliments et des pratiques, nous cherchons ¨¤ rendre compte des processus d'adh¨¦sion, d'exclusion, d'homog¨¦n¨¦isation et de diff¨¦rentiation de la collectivit¨¦ p¨¦ruvienne dans un contexte d¡äimmigration. Nous voulons souligner en particulier le r le des restaurants comme lien entre les migrants, les grammaires culinaires qui r¨¦sultent de cet enlacement ainsi que les fonctions socioculturelles de l¡äalimentation qui s`y distinguent. Suite ¨¤ l¡äessor de la gastronomie p¨¦ruvienne ces derni¨¨res ann¨¦es au niveau international, nous proposons aussi de retourner sur le terrain, pratiquement neuf ans plus tard, dans le but de constater l¡¯importance des restaurants dans le contexte
%K food
%K identity
%K Peruvian migration
%K Buenos Aires
%K restaurant
%K discrimination
%K alimentation
%K identit¨¦
%K Buenos Aires
%K restaurant
%K accueil
%K Immigration p¨¦ruvienne
%U http://aof.revues.org/6660