%0 Journal Article
%T Deux restaurants ¨¤ New York: l'un franco-maghr¨¦bin, l'autre africain. Two restaurants in New York : one is Franco-Maghrebian, the other is African -Recent creations of "well-tempered" exoticisms
%A Jean-Pierre Hassoun
%J Anthropology of Food
%D 2010
%I Anthropology of Food
%X L¡¯article repose sur une enqu¨ºte ethnographique conduite en 2008-2009 ¨¤ Manhattan aupr¨¨s de huit entrepreneurs devenus Chef et/ou managers de restaurant apr¨¨s avoir immigr¨¦ ¨¤ New York. Aucun d¡¯entre eux n¡¯a ¨¦t¨¦ form¨¦ dans une institution culinaire et tous proposent des cuisines de r¨¦gions du monde (Afrique, Afrique du Nord) encore absentes, ou peu pr¨¦sentes ¨¤ New York. A partir de deux ¨¦tudes de cas plus d¨¦taill¨¦es, l¡¯auteur s¡¯interroge sur les strat¨¦gies marchandes autour de cette alt¨¦rit¨¦ et les limites du cosmopolitisme propre au   globalisme  . La trajectoire du restaurateur se transforme en h¨¦ritage par le biais d¡¯un ego-r¨¦cit qui s¡¯utilise comme une ressource commerciale. Les restaurateurs int¨¦riorisent les d¨¦sirs des clients. Plus que la recherche de go ts inconnus ou d¡¯une alt¨¦rit¨¦ radicale imagin¨¦e comme authentique, ceux-ci veulent avant tout identifier les ingr¨¦dients ing¨¦r¨¦s, avoir une id¨¦e de leur provenance, et respecter un ensemble (instable) de normes nutritionnelles subsum¨¦ aujourd¡¯hui ¨¤ Manhattan par la cat¨¦gorie indig¨¨ne healthy. Les restaurateurs anticipent ces d¨¦sirs en op¨¦rant sur les plats un travail de retrait, de s¨¦paration et de substitution des ingr¨¦dients. L¡¯exotisme s¡¯est mis au r¨¦gime. This paper is based on ethnographic fieldwork (november 2008-january 2009) in Manhattan with eight entrepreneurs who became Chef and/or restaurant manager after they immigrated in New York. Not any one has an academic culinary background and they all propose food from regions (Africa, and North Africa) which are not yet offered (or not much offered) in the city. The author stresses on two cases studies to question informal market strategies, cosmopolitanism and globalism limits. Restaurant owner¡¯s trajectory ¨C a narrative which becomes a heritage - is used as a market resource. Restaurants internalize and anticipate customers¡¯ desires; In fact town people doesn¡¯t desire unknown tastes or meetings with radical otherness imagined as authentic. They want to identify the ingredients they ingest, to get an idea about their origin and to observe a set of nutritional rules (less or more stable) subsumed today in New York within the indigenous category healthy. To anticipate these desires, restaurant owners remove, separate and substitute ingredients. Exoticism is on diet.
%K globalization
%K restaurant
%K exoticism
%K healthy norms
%K cosmopolitanism
%K New York
%K globalisation
%K sant¨¦
%K restaurant
%K exotisme
%K cosmopolitisme
%K New York
%U http://aof.revues.org/6730